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Story and photo RACHEL ROME

Just returned from a week of pampering at the unique, luxurious four diamonds Don CeSar Beach Resort, a Loews Hotel, on St. Pete Beach, Florida, along the Gulf of Mexico. Paradise at the Pink Palace left me relaxed, rejuvenated and reluctant to leave my “throne” as “Queen” of the Pink Palace. This world-class destination resort and spa is a glamorous, classy historic hotel affectionately nicknamed the “Don,” the “Pink Lady,” and “the Pink Palace”.

donCaesar

Painted a soft pink pastel, The Pink Palace has an exclusive shade of rouge made just for it -- created by DuPont -- which takes 12,000 gallons and nine months to spread over the exterior. On the National Historic Register, it features a classy, contemporary, romantic style.

Memories…sunset over the Gulf of Mexico… cheers from watchers at the Sunset Bar, wedding guests on patio ..watching the sunset over the ….daily procession of beach walkers, strolling, jogging or beachcombing from one end of St. Pete Beach to the other.. piano in the lobby, lobby bar, elegant grand stairway from Lobby to the ground level. The stunning view of the elegant lobby and lobby lounge area as I entered the front door was just as romantic and beautiful I had remembered. Desserts (and wedding cakes) by pastry chef Tara Bishop melted my resolve to abstain.

I know the St. Pete Beach area could be chilly in early March but also recalled the Pink Lady’s restaurants, lobbies, bars, shopping mall, fitness center and spa would keep me entertained even indoors. I didn’t know, before I arrived, that I would stay in an elegant penthouse with two floors, kitchen, living room, two bedrooms and best feature -- a huge terrace with furniture and fabulous views. Top of the World!

The sun came out often enough for me to return to Beverly with a tan and fitter after walking for hours along the miles long beach. During walks, I beach combed, found scallops shells, squawking seagulls, sandpipers, egrets, pelicans, and kids throwing pebbles into the ocean. One evening I took the Seacoast Beach Trolley to Pass-a-Grille’s Merry Pier, met friends, and boarded the Shell Kay Shuttle’s 1 1/2 Sunset Cruise, cruising through residential waterways and pristine barrier islands south of Pass-A-Grille. We brought our own wine and snacks and wrapped up in blankets.

The Don also offers catamarans, aquabikes, kayaks, paddle cats and parasailing and runs sailing and waverunner clinics. Golf, tennis, fishing, snorkeling and scuba diving are nearby and Ron, my concierge, offered to arrange whatever I wanted. .One afternoon I toured the Salvador Dali Museum in St. Petersburg, and several mornings I walked up the beach,

Uncle Andy's old-fashioned ice cream parlor on the ground floor was my first priority. I splurged on black cherry hot fudge ice cream sundae. Yum! And bought a chocolate alligator.

For eight nights I resided in Penthouse, 802, facing west, with its own elevator. (Penthouse 801 faces east.) Mornings, I relaxed on one of the terrace’s chaise lounges, eating breakfast and watching the ocean waves. Room service breakfasts arrived hot and on time. I ate on the dining room table or terrace table. The outstanding feature of the two-floor, two-bedroom was the spacious outdoor terrace outside the living room’s French doors. Every clear night (it was cloudy several nights, and cold), I stood on my terrace and gawked at the setting sun, changing blue skies to a blood red. One night a thunderstorm sent a howling wind through the turrets; maybe the Ghost of Don CeSar?

The hotel is a crowning jewel on Florida’s Gulf Coast and on the silky sand beach. The Don CeSar Beach Resort & Spa, opened in 1928 on exclusive Pass-a-Grille Island, is a romantic treasure on the National Register of Historic Places and Historic Hotels of America and has been in many movies. It’s a popular site for destination weddings and I watched two outdoor weddings in the “bridal” courtyard from my window

Families and kids have a special place at the hotel, which boasts “Loews Love Kids.” The resort has a Camp Cesar kid’s program, a scooped-out play area in the sand where tots can safely play in the silky sand. Pets are welcome here, too, and I spotted an adorable poodle waltzing through the lobby one morning.

The Don CeSar was built in 1928 by Thomas Rowe to resemble the Royal Hawaiian in Waikiki Beach for $1.2 million, was nearly 300 percent over budget. The Don CeSar gets its name from the opera "Meritana." The resort, The Don reigned as the hot spot for high society from F. Scott Fitzgerald, Clarence Darrow, Lou Gehrig and Al Capone until a fatal combination occurred -- the Depression, World War II and Rowe's death. It became a convalescent center for soldiers during World War II, then a VA office building, and seriously considered for the wrecking ball. Good thing, for the ghosts of Don Cesar wouldn’t have had a home. In 1973, the resort re-opened as a luxury resort after major renovations in 1994, 2001 and 2008.

Thanks to Ron MacDougall, my resort host and amiable concierge, I always had a friendly greeting plus a reminder to call for anything I needed. Other guests I spoke to told me they’d had the same reminder. The Don staff is top-notch and treats kids and adults with grace, professionalism and kindness. “We offer many unique local experiences, such as tickets to major league baseball – go Red Sox! --, football and hockey games, dolphin watching and sunset cruises, “ said Ron, who arranged my transportation from and back to Tampa airport with Olympus Limo and driver Wayne.

Food is so good at the Pink Palace. The Maritana Grille received AAA’s Four Diamond rating for the past 14 year and it deserves every diamond. The Maritana offers fine dining experience featuring “New American Cuisine with Floribbean accents” in an intimate setting featuring several large in-wall salt-water aquariums. Award-winning cuisine and an extensive wine list are complemented by world-class service. Charming Jeremy Flanery, Food and Beverage Manager (a Simon Baker look-alike) seated me next to the tank holding Cesar, the lime green moray eel and four pink spring squirrelfish. Fascinating to watch. Jeremy recommended a glass of viridian pinot noir, the Maine lobster agnolott with leeks, for an appetizer, the terrine salad, and an entrée of pan seared duck breast. I finished my feast with white chocolate exotic pastry and cappuccino. The gourmet meal was superb, and so was the service matched. My total bill came to $102.46, including tax and tip. Maritana Grille Reservations (727) 360-1881 (800) 282-1116.

The Chef's Table is set in the kitchen of The Maritana Grille. Each dinner is a five-course tasting menu specially chosen for the table by the chef. Reservations Call (727) 360-1881 or (800) 282-1116. The Sea Porch Café is a festive restaurant, decorated with pink and green chintz and white wicker furniture. The beachfront location has indoor and outdoor seating. I had a Cobb salad one day, and took half back to my room.

I ate lunch with Patrician Walls, from the Don CeSar Hotel executive staff. “The Don is a wedding destination, with more than 400 weddings held here in 2009,” Patty told me. Patty ordered a green bean appetizer with sauce, to die for while I ordered shrimp appetizer; we split the food but still couldn’t finish it. My mahi mahi sandwich was fresh, and the dessert an almond white chocolate concoction marvelous.

The Beachcomber Bar and Grill serves tasty hamburgers, salads, and frozen drinks on the beachside patio, sandwiches and burgers. A sports bar, beach bar, live music, dancing and sunsets add to the fun. The Sea Porch Cafe and the outdoors bar serves food and beverages on your chaise or at glass-topped tablse by the ocean or pool. Royal palm trees and tropical foliage, bushes and umbrellas provide shade and a garden ambience on the grounds, part of the charm and uniqueness of the Don.

Pool and beach staff set up chaises by beach and pool. Stationed at a covered stand by one pool, they handed guests iced water with lemon in a glass dispenser, newspapers, magazines and even dispensed suntan lotion in little cups, thanks, Jason.

After two days swimming in the pools and relaxing in the Jacuzzi, I remembered I am from the North Shore and an ocean lover so headed to the beach. Too cold to swim, it was wonderful watching the waves, walking on the sugar sand, dodging seagulls, and spotting dolphins. In the afternoons, a wind sometimes blew in from the Gulf, but sun lovers bundled up in towels or found cover behind the shrubs and palm trees.

One cloudy morning I spent a few hours relaxing in the new Spa Oceana where I was pampered to the utmost, as Sarah Murov, Hotel Director of Public Relations for Loews Florida Resort, promised. Michele Queen, my aesthetician, gave me the Ocearepair Age Prevention facial in Oceana Spa. After the relaxing, therapeutic technique spa treatment – my skin glowed for days afterwards. Later, I relaxed with in the steam room, sauna and Jacuzzi. The modern, spa specializes in rejuvenating body wraps, massages and reflexology. The spa also has a roof terrace for spa-goers who can relax on brown wicker chaises and chairs, overlooking the ocean and pools and gardens.

The new $11 million, 11,000 square-foot Spa Oceana opened in 2008 with 16 treatment rooms and beauty salon. Spa Oceana offers two couples' suites, one with a balcony overlooking the beach. The salon has with hair, manicure and pedicure stations, a bright, spacious women's changing area that includes lockers, a private changing room, vanities, showers, a chromatherapy steam room and a whirlpool overlooking the beach. The men's area has similar facilities. The contemporary reception area has a well-stocked boutique. A spa menu is served on the patio.

The Pink Palace has 277 guest rooms and suites, some with private terraces, balconies and panoramic ocean views. Two beachfront pools, a full-service spa and 24-hour fitness center and parking. The Don has 22,000 square feet of function space, capacity of 650, two ballrooms, including the bi-level Grand Ballroom and the King Charles Ballroom; 24-hour in-room dining. Shops at the Don sell sundries to designer swimwear.

"Come all ye who seek health and rest, for here they are abundant" was written on the entrance arch of the Don CeSar in the1920's when Thomas Rowe built the resort. Welcome to "Pink Palace."

Spa Oceana, www.loewshotels.com/Content/en/Hotels/St-Pete-Beach-Resort/Spa-Oceana/index.
Don CeSar, 3400 Gulf Blvd., St. Pete Beach, Florida 33706, Phone: (727) 360-1881, Fax: (727) 363-5034, Toll Free Reservations: 1-800-282-1116. www.loewshotels.com/en/Hotels/St-Pete-Beach-Resort/Overview.aspx.